Tuesday, April 10, 2018

Dutch Artillery Limber: More than meets the eye Part 1

I've long played my wargames with the convention of one limber per battery to represent my artillery on the move. When it's time to shift, limber model comes on and when they deploy, guns and crew go down and limber comes off. For my developing Papelotte (Waterloo) scenario I have a reduced two-gun Dutch horse artillery battery in play so it was time to build the Perry Miniatures DB44 model being a four horse limber team - the only one on offer.
Not many (or any?) manufacturers make a full galloping limber team which is a crying shame. This model is a walking limber but beggars can't be choosers. I determined to go the extra mile with this model and rig the full harness as best I can. In this effort I have to say the figures themselves don't offer much assistance. The rig does not provide for the forward harness array so I've had to improvise and kit-bash significantly.

I like to base my larger models and artillery prior to painting just to give me something to grip up. I also find that the model as a whole retains better structural integrity if I build as much as I can before painting. I placed and traced the arrangement on the base and then cut grooves into the 5mm MDF to better seat the gun carriage and the wheels of the piece itself. I used Selleys Araldite to glue the metal on metal parts and Liquid Nails to fix them to the MDF. I ensured the limber pole was elevated to the correct height when setting the piece.
A few observations: like a lot of models requiring assembly, the manufacturers provide little in the way of a guide on how to assemble the model. As I'm thousands of kilometers from my home library it was onto the internet for some reference shots. As you may know, the drivers should be on the left of the team looking forward. The second detail to be aware of is that it's the horses with the rump harness array (above) which is the team nearest the carriage (to the rear). I was almost going to stuff that up until I noticed.
The next thing I needed to do was drill receiving holes at the correct points in the harness to fix my cables. You may not be able to see this clearly enough but on the rearward pair they are at the forward section of the rump harness (that's what I'm calling it) just behind the saddle. With correct manipulation of my hand drill, I created channels leading into the receiving holes at the same time. You need two cables for each mount. For the forward pair, they enter the rear of the harness skirt and you can see where the sculpted cable starts on the figure - so make the connection there.
I can't recall when and where I picked up this modellers thread but it's perfect - I suspect it's made for model ship builders.
You might see the receiving holes I drilled just behind the scabbard of this rearward rider. Like all of my mounted figures, I drill holes in the riders seat and saddle and fix with a steel wire pin with Araldite prior to undercoating.

Without wanting to waste my thread, I allowed a bit of play because I was going to need to tie it off at various points.

Okay now here's an experiment which I was compelled to abandon. Either a part was missing with my purchase or the model does not come with a forward mounting for the forward team to hitch on. I decided to start manufacturing my own only to find out that the limber centre pole does not extend far enough past the rear team to allow for the extension to be built as I have seen. Oh well, I cut it off and improvised with forward cabling tied directly to the pole.
Next step: glue the riding team to the base and wait. Once the glue set, I then tied off the rear cables to the limber hitch rail using Superglue. I also elected to coat the cables completely in Superglue to let them set rigid for undercoating with the rest of the model.
I made some hard plastic hitching poles for the forward team and Superglued them. I then fixed them in turn to the limber pole with some cable off-cuts from the centre of the hitching pole to the limber pole.
I can only apologize at this point for what must be a gross failure on my part to correctly identify the correct names for the component parts of an artillery limber of the period. Anyone wishing to set the record straight must be my guest and feel free to post an insightful comment.
I think going to this sort of effort is akin to the rig/no-rigging approach to age of sail model ship building and wargaming. It's not for everyone and plenty wonder why I'd bother. I wonder too at times.
It seems that the Dutch limber on offer is from their French ordinance and they fielded British variants also during the 100 Days campaign. Now this is for my horse artillery and I am surmising that the drivers of the train do not differ between horse and foot batteries - I'll be sure to check. Perry Miniatures don't give me options anyway and there's not a lot on offer for the Dutch Belgian forces in any event. It is only a four-horse team and again, there were no additional pairs on offer for the Dutch. This model will represent Bijleveld's battery which copped a pounding at Quarter Bras prior to Waterloo and lost a lot of horses. Therefore I am comfortable enough with only a four-horse team for the horse artillery for my scenario.
The riderless team I'm painting separate to the rest of the model and will attach them afterwards. This will allow me far greater access to the model when I'm painting it. I've painted entire limber models before and I'm keen to avoid it - what a painful exercise!
I may end up fixing both forward hitching poles to each other - I'll see how I feel later. There's all sorts of detail I could have gone into for this model. For a start, there's a lovely set of artillery equipment by Black Hussar Miniatures which could be fixed to the carriage. Also, I've never seen anyone make mounted horse artillery crew who would have ridden along with their limber crews - so I suppose that rules that option out. Anyway, time for undercoating.

This has been a small journey of discovery for me and I hope someone gets something out of this lot.


Friday, March 16, 2018

WARLORD Ceasarian Romans: Tribunes

I think I may have stated in my prepping post that the first of my three Tribunes is a slight conversion. I think he was 'hailing' but I lopped and replaced his hand with a waving gladius. Not sure if you can see from any of these or my previous photos but I undercoat my sword blades with a blackened gun metal mix, heavily dry brush with steel and then highlight the edges with silver.

I cropped the plume on the helmeted officer to give him that broom-end crest look which I preferred for a more junior officer. Don't ask me to justify that - I can't. I don't normally include images of incomplete figures either but I have no bases for these three hard-men and I wanted to catalogue them on the blog before I forget. I really love the cloaks on these sculpts - beautiful folds. I went with regular reds for their uniforms and clothing as I'm saving other colour options for the Legatus. Theoretically they could be any officer but they will be my Tribnes.

I've yet to make another light box over here so I'm just assisting my photography and the natural light with my working lamp with my camera flash off. 
The final Tribune is a mean faced character, best seen from the other side. I'm not sure how I will base these and if I'm going to need more until I read Warlord's Hail Caesar rule set. For Warhammer Ancient Battles they'd be based individually and fielded as characters.

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Warlord Caesarian Romans: Cohorts I & III

Primus Pilus Lucius Varinus & Legionary Titus Pulo ... who else?
Done at last (except the bases). I have completed my rendition of the first and third cohorts of Legio XI for the civil wars ... or thereabouts. This was stalled due to the impact of cyclone Gita here in Tonga but now things are mostly back to normal I am proceeding across my wargaming projects once more.
First Cohort Legio XI
My first produced cohort for this legion was the second (see previous posting) and I've adopted a couple of different approaches this time. You will see a few green shields in the mix with the general legion blue and the unpainted raw leather variants. I'm playing with the idea that for whatever reason they have had a colour change to blue but there a a few older green shields retained by some veterans.
Anyone following my blog may recall an earlier posting where I sketched up the shield designs and couldn't decide between the green or the blue - so I'm creating reasons to have a bet both ways. If I add more cohorts to the legion I'll go with blue and brown from here on.
All figures are Warlord including the Pulo & Varinus set who I have naturally as Primus Pilus with Pulo defending the eagle. The Aquilifer is a re-purposed Wargames Foundry figure from the early imperial range as is the cornicern.
Cohort III
Both cohorts this time have the front rank drawing gladius supported by pilum in the rear - when deployed two ranks deep anyway. I included a casualty figure for each cohort this time to mix it up a bit.
Taking heed of a comment on the Lead Adventure Forum I experimented with dulling down my brass with a brown wash and I am quite happy with the result. I don't think I'll revisit my first cohort (cohort II) which would take little effort but I will retain the differences and imagine that cohort II is freshly equipped whereas I & II have been marching under the eagle for some time.
These latest centurions and my representative decanus (what is the plural for decanus?) have red horsehair plumes. My Primus Pilus is straight out of the box whereas my centurion for the third cohort is a conversion - so now I have three different centurion figures. I'm enjoying this diversification and will continue to change every centurion to make him unique to the others.
I made the cohort III standard a white hawk to add to the mixture. Well, that's it for my Romans for the time being. I'm waiting another six weeks for Vini Vidi Vici decals to reprint their white Hellenistic horse decals before I can continue. I also need to decide if I want to change to another legion to diversify my army and to give me the option of an enemy - I'm all for fielding both sides. In the meantime I' getting back to my Balaclava project and apply my developed brass painting technique to some British heavy dragoons. Tally Ho!


Saturday, December 16, 2017

WARLORD Ceasarian Romans: Prepping

I've started already in assembling the next two cohorts of my representation of Legio XI for the Gallic and Civil Wars. All miniatures are from the very appealing Warlord Games Caesar's Legions range. My first and third cohorts are next together with some tribunes command figures.

For these units I am having the front ranks with drawn gladius and the rear ranks supporting with pilum. The Warlord range uses the same torsos for both sets which require the added preparation of carving away the gladius grip and pommels for those legionaries who have their swords drawn - which you can see I have done.

I may have failed to point out to those unfamiliar with this range that I have carved away the crests on all helmets except for those I am designating optios. This also requires a bit of careful fiddling.

The heads, weapon arms and shield are then glued on - for me in precisely that order -leaving time for the liquid cement to set properly. That's it for the rank and file but I had more engineering left for the command figures. I have ordered the command set with the cornicern which I will place with the first cohort - still actually at standard strength for this period. I am painting the tuba equipped musicians in the meantime.

For the third cohort I have converted a variation eagle I had lying around to replace the bull signum which is the only standard Warlord Games provides in their legionary sets - a problematic limitation. I carved off the eagle wreath and as it has its wings swept back, I'm going to paint it white or black for either a dove or a hawk. To further differentiate it I made and glued two plastic discs onto the staff which I half drilled in the centre to represent unit awards.

As there are a number of cohorts to create, I also changed the centurion for the third cohort. I cut and sanded back the top of the transverse crested helmet the kits come with - the Greek style helmet. This left just the helmet crown with crest. I then cut back another head and fixed the two together to give me a more Montefortino result. I intend for each of my cohort centurions to differ from one another.

For the first cohort they get the eagle. I converted an old Wargames Foundry early imperial aquilifer by cutting and filing off his waist and shoulder pteruges and his frontal helmet ridges to better resemble the Warlord Caesarians. Both new cohortes are having a casualty figure modeled as one of their number and the Primus Pilus Lucius Varenus and Titus Pulo character set is leading the cohort and protecting the eagle respectively.
The metal Warlord Games Roman Officer set comes with a mounted and foot tribune - one apparently hailing the other? Well, I cut, filed, drilled and pinned a sword hand to my foot tribune to make him a little more aggressively active.

They are now ready for undercoating but this won't advance until after Christmas. A happy holiday to all and may your stockings overflow with figures!

Tuesday, December 12, 2017


I ripped into these figures quick smart once I decided to break the seal - or should that be once the ram touched the wall? I've seen the HBO series Rome too many times to be able to resist leaping into a second Roman army so here is the first of many cohorts to come. Contrary to my usual practice, all figures are from the same manufacturer - Warlord Games Caesar's Legions.
I've never created a plastic infantry unit before and I have to report that these gents were easy to assemble and great to paint. I truly enjoyed myself creating a speculative Legio XI and being able to put my invented shield design into practice.

 I used two different skin tones (only subtle) and two different off-white tunic colour schemes. It's obvious from this overhead shot that I went with a scattering of iron helmets in the mix also. I've not used any filters when Photoshoping so what you see is what I got. I am very keen to take on the first cohort (double strength) next.
I included three replacement shields in the group as I wanted to represent what an unpainted field replacement might have looked like - quickly stenciled black over rawhide. The horse symbols representing Neptune are Veni Vidi Vici 28mm decals, fixed and then settled with Microsol, matte coated then the shields were lightly black- washed before matte varnishing.
I will paint alternate green shields with the same design for other cohorts and even mix a few green shields in largely blue units and some greens in with blue shielded cohorts. I want as much of the legion represented to depict something of a transition stage. I also happen to be having difficulty choosing between the two so I can have both - can't I? Standing back it should look relatively congruous.
I'm not sure why the packs come with a trumpet and not a cornicern. Also, the standard has no awards on it so it's just a plain shaft. I'll be mucking about with the next one. They have a bull so let's say these chaps are from northern Italy.
My next unit will have gladius in the front ranks with pilum in the rear I think. The pilum armed figures require significant depth so they are occupying a six figure base end-on which I had measured for a front-on formation in two ranks. I have used the same bases I had cut but have used six instead of four to base the 24 figures. Anyway, it's back to the Crimea before Christmas.

Friday, December 1, 2017

Flag Tutorial: Making Cloth Flags

I take a fair bit of effort to create my own flags. I see many people's armies and units whose flags are an afterthought, an inconvenience or a nuisance step in the process to paint up a unit of toy soldiers and get them on that table. I get it completely. Many of us probably think it's too fiddly or that we feel unable to compete with the level of detail commercially produced flags can achieve through the printing process. In many ways this is neither wrong nor unreasonable but I'd like to make the case for making your own flags and provide a crude how-to for what I am doing these days.

When my eye falls on a unit of finely painted toy soldiers one of the first aspects which catches my attention is the units flags. This is perhaps particularly the case for the large flags (colours or standards) that were popular from the renaissance through to the end of the nineteenth century - particularly and consistently for German and British flags. They are relatively big, colourful and meant a lot to the men who fought beneath them - so I always thought I should put some care into their reproduction also.

The problem with commercial paper flags is they look like what they are - stiff or shaped paper flags. The designs and print qualities aside, they just don't look like a silk flag. I suppose I should specify here that I'm really talking about 28mm scale flags. For smaller unit flags such as French Napoleonic flags of 15mm armies I'm perfectly happy to go with a printed flag.

I used to design and fashion my flags from tissue paper. It was thin enough to re-trace the mirror image of any design exactly on the other side (handy), easily shaped when wet with white glue and they set nicely. They were a perfect surface to paint on also. But since I saw a few commercial flags produced using the finest of cloth, I took the leap and can't go back.
I use a very fine suite lining fabric - white so I can draw on it. I cut oversize so once set later in the process, I trim the edges back to the proper dimensions. For this example, I am making a British set of 28mm flags for the 3/60th regiment of foot for the British Army at Quebec 1759. The flags represent a 6' x 6' 6" slightly rectangular flag and I use slightly generous (oversized) measurements of 35mm height at the staff x 40mm long.

The initial measurements for the cloth exceed the 40mm length considerably to allow me to wind the cloth onto the steel wire flag-pole - I'll be trimming it off anyway. I run a carefully applied smear of Selleys Kwick Grip glue up the wire to allow fixing the 35mm width of cloth. I ensure that about a 5mm or so gap is left at the top of the wire where I will later fix the finials and tassels. I use steel wire cut and straightened with the top filed off to a slight point to seat better into the drilled finial. I first fix just the very edge of the cloth to the wire and let then set properly before applying sufficient glue to then wind or wrap the cloth around until it covers the join. I then let this set properly.
Now I can draw my design with a pencil. The cloth gives and shifts and I admit it's not as good a drawing on paper but the lines can be traced effectively through this cloth on the other side.After my basic design is complete it's time to wrap them.
I simply fold the cloth back on itself concertina style working from the wire outwards until the cloth is fully folded against the wire and then wrap it in cotton - no need to tie it up - it will hold. I then immerse it completely in a bath of diluted PVA white glue and give it a half hour or so to soak fully. This is why it's important that the previous application of glue fixing the cloth to the wire is fully set.
Once I retrieve the flags from the solution, I unwrap them and tease them out to open up the folds. As you can see this time I have pinned them to aid this as the little flags dry. This process sets the future shape of the unfurled flags and also sets the fabric sufficient for painting. As I write this I realise I made all this up as I went along over time through experimenting. I'm sure other people must be doing something similar - I just haven't seen it.
Once set, the flags are then trimmed and the cloth painting can begin. Even though the cloth is soaked and set in a PVA solution, if the paint is thinned too much it will still bleed into the fabric. I darken my shades with a little black to get a richer shade and because the white will lighten the application.
Once I finish painting the flags themselves, I then fix the finials. These are from Crusader which are specific to my Quebec project. Having worked with these finials I am compelled to say I prefer the Front Rank variants which are just that little bit more robust. I drilled out the ends so I could fix them to the wire with Supaglue.

It's worth pointing out that these flags took a lot of handling and still retained their shape so you don't need to be too precious with them. In fact the handling helped round out the folds. They also take a fair amount of detailing but that depends upon the weave of the fabric. The finial chords were simply painted in darkened red with a gold highlight to represent the red/gold thread. The gold or brass finial was given a brown undercoat before gold dry-brushing.
I emphasised the creases with a diluted black/brown wash but depending upon the colour of your flags, be careful of bleed-through to the other side. You don't want partial shading lines on the reverse highlights - given that one side's recess is the other side's bulge. It would be of benefit to spray coat it with a matte varnish first - I didn't. I applied the same wash from the bottom edge and end of the flags. I refrained this time from applying tears or bullet battle damage but it's always an option.

Well that's it. I hope this has been useful to someone.


Thursday, November 30, 2017

UG the Great: Back to work!

I know what you're thinking ... enough is enough. Well I couldn't help but put myself in the picture so to speak. I wanted to keep practicing to hone the new skills. Well I'm happy that I'm done with this foolishness - so it's back to my more usual foolishness.